Guinea Pig Care 101
Here are the most important things to think about before you add guinea pigs to your family!
Accomodation
Guinea Pigs need much more space than many people realise! Most cages sold in pet shops are far too small. We recommend a space at least 6 ft by 2 ft for a pair, for example a 5x2 c&c or a 6 ft hutch. For larger groups you will need to add another 2x1c&c grid per piggy, or look at converting a shed or playhouse.
Guinea Pigs are ground-dwelling animals, they often struggle with ramps. Any extra levels or lofts should be considered a bonus and they don’t count towards the space requirements. i.e. A double-level 3-foot hutch is not the same as a 6-foot single-level! Ramps should be shallow, around 30 degrees. If you are using an outdoor hutch, you will need to ensure it is predator-proof. I recommend installing extra locks and regularly checking for damage.
Bedding
Guinea Pigs pee and poo everywhere! Therefore, they need absorbent bedding throughout their enclosure. You can either go for washable or disposable bedding.
Washable:
You can buy fleece liners, which cover the base of your cage. Kavee are a well-known brand, but there are also many small businesses that make them. You can also make your own; you’ll need a fleece top, an absorbent middle layer (e.g., wadding, towelling, zorb) and another fleece or waterproof layer at the bottom to make a sandwich.
Bath mats also work well, particularly the bobbly ones. Smaller pads can be used in high traffic areas, such as under hides and water bottles.
If you use fleece, you will need to spot clean every day by sweeping, hoovering or shaking out poo and replacing any wet areas. Then, every 5 days or so you will need to wash the main liner. It’s important you regularly check to see if your liner is damp, otherwise your piggies can suffer from UTIs and bumblefoot from wet bedding.
Ignore any washing instructions that tell you to wash gently at 30 degrees! You will need to wash hot to kill any bacteria. I also recommend using an unscented laundry sanitiser or a cup of white vinegar. Wash in a bag to avoid bits of hay and hair clogging your machine.
If you use fleece as your bedding, please ensure you have a large hay area for your Guinea Pigs to forage and sleep in (aim for a quarter of your cage being hay)
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Disposable:
Wood shavings are a very traditional choice. Often, people say “sawdust” when they really mean “wood shavings” - they are actually very different. Sawdust isn’t safe as a bedding choice for any animal. Make sure you are buying high-quality, kiln-dried, dust extracted wood-shavings; dusty bedding can cause respiratory problems! Wood-shavings can also be dusty for asthma sufferers.
There are a few other options if wood shavings aren’t for you. Aubiose is a hemp-based bedding or megazorb which is recycled paper pulp - both can be bought online or at equestrian shops.
If you use disposable bedding, you will need to remove wet patches and add fresh hay daily. Once a week, you will need to do a deep clean where you will remove all bedding, clean the surfaces and replace with clean.
Newspaper can be used under bedding as an extra layer, or to allow for easy removal but it is not absorbent enough to be the only bedding. Small animal pet litter is great for using under hay, but it’s a bit bumpy underfoot for the whole cage
Cleaning
Be sure to use pet safe cleaning products. White vinegar is great, and removes calcium wee stains. For total disinfecting, use a vet grade disinfectant such as F10 or anigene.
Clean water bottles daily, especially the spouts. We don’t want any green water bottles! Don’t forget to wash bowls too.
Grooming
Guinea Pigs are generally very clean animals, and rarely need bathing. However, if they do become very dirty you can carefully bathe them in shallow, warm water using products designed for Guinea Pigs (we love Gorgeous Guineas products) Be sure to dry them thoroughly, with a very low hairdryer.
Long-haired Guinea Pigs will need regular grooming to prevent matting. It’s advisable to keep long-haired trimmed where it drags along the ground, or around the bottom. Even short-haired guinea pigs will benefit from being brushed to remove loose hair and dry skin. They will also need their nails trimming. You can easily do this yourself with small pet clippers, or vets and groomers may be able to help you.
Diet
80% of your Guinea Pigs diet should be hay. Opt for the best quality you can afford - it should be fresh smelling, green and long stemmed! They must have hay available 24/7 - an insufficient amount of hay can cause dental and digestive problems. Just 16 hours without food is fatal to a Guinea Pig. Guinea Pigs need a cup full of fresh veggies per day - they cannot produce their own vitamin C so this is important to their health.
Aim for a good variety and everything in moderation, there are a huge variety of things they can eat! Peppers are a great daily choice as they are low in sugar and high in vitamin C. Anything dark green will be high in calcium - ie. Kale, spinach etc and should be fed only a couple of times a week in order to reduce the risk of bladder stones. Fruit can be given as an occasional treat.
Here’s a great guide to feeding veggies: https://www.guineapiggles.co.uk/guinea-pig-food-daily-dietary-requirements/
You can also find a huge amount of free food for your Guinea Pigs growing in the wild or in your own garden. For example, dandelions, plantain, sow thistle, clover. Never pick anything if you aren’t completely sure. The smallest part of your Guinea Pigs diet is made up of pellets/nuggets/dry food. Make sure you choose a plain nugget, and not a colourful muesli as these are full of sugars and can cause selective feeding. We use Science Selective nuggets (the grain-free is excellent) and Burgess Excel. You don’t need an overflowing bowl! 2 tablespoons per piggy is a good guide.
Healthcare
Guinea Pigs are classed as exotic animals, which unfortunately means that most vets don’t receive much training in how to treat them. You may need to look for a specialist exotic vet, but you may also get lucky and find a general vet with a special interest. Guinea Pigs are very good at hiding illnesses, so it’s vital that you get them to a vet quickly if they are showing signs of being unwell. It’s a great idea to weigh your guinea pigs weekly as weight loss is often the first sign that something is wrong.
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Even though Guinea Pigs are small animals, they can come with BIG vet bills which you need to be prepared for. You can insure Guinea Pigs, although not many companies offer it at time of writing but it will give you peace of mind that vet bills are covered. You may also want to consider setting money aside each month for potential vet bills.
Some common Guinea Pig health issues
Mites/Lice:
Guinea Pigs do not commonly get fleas, but they can get various forms of mites and lice. The most dangerous is the mange mite, you cannot see these with your naked eye, but you can see the itchiness and hair loss they cause - this typically shows itself as a v shape across the shoulders. It is treated with a spot-on called ivermectin which is available online or from your vet. It can cause seizures and even death if not treated. Other mites that you might see are hay mites/static lice - they look like little specks along the hair, they’re harmless but unsightly. Running lice sit on the skin and look like tiny white worms; they’re itchy and annoying. Both of these can be treated with a shampoo or spray, such as Farrier’s Biosect products or Gorgeous Guineas “lice n easy”
Ringworm:
It appears as bald, crusty patches anywhere on the body and is caused by a fungal infection. Be careful, it is incredibly infectious and humans can get it! You will need to deep clean everything in your piggies cage, and wash your hands. Depending on the severity, you can treat with anti-fungal shampoos, sprays (such a lucellin) or creams, and it can take time to resolve. Talk to your vet about the best cause of treatment for your piggy.
UTIs/urinary stones:
Blood in your Guinea Pigs wee is usually caused by either an infection or bladder stones and the two are often working hand in hand. You will need to see a vet ASAP. Nobody is 100% sure what causes bladder stones, but there is certainly a genetic component as some Guinea Pigs seem prone to them no matter what you do. It was previously thought high calcium vegetables were the sole cause of stones, but it seems that the real story may be far more complex, so we don’t recommend cutting high calcium veggies from your pig’s diet completely - just keeping it down to 1-2 times a week. We know that Guinea Pigs on a high hay, low pellet diet are less likely to develop stones - good hydration also helps to keep the urinary system flushed. We recommend 2 bottles in the cage, and rinsing veggies with extra water.
Respiratory problems:
Guinea Pigs are very vulnerable to respiratory viruses and bacteria and can become unwell incredibly quickly. At any signs of nasal discharge or wheezing, get your Guinea Pig to the vet as soon as you possibly can. Antibiotics will be needed.
Lumps and bumps:
Guinea Pigs are prone to a variety of lumps! It’s important you have any new lumps checked. Sebaceous cysts are common, and are filled with thick, white or grey secretions. Small ones are harmless, but larger ones may need removing. They may burst on their own, but it is important to get them checked to ensure they aren’t abscesses. An abscess can pop up incredibly quickly, and is usually caused by an injury or an internal infection. They are often hot, fast growing and are filled with pus. They need to be drained if they haven’t burst or surgically removed and often also need to be treated with antibiotics. If untreated, the infection can spread and kill your Guinea. Any other lumps may be harmless fatty lumps or something more sinister so always get them checked by a vet.
GI stasis:
GI stasis (when your Guinea Pig stops eating and pooing) is a serious medical emergency and the underlying cause needs to be treated ASAP, at an emergency vet if needed. If your Guinea Pig stops eating, you will need to syringe feed them with recovery food until they eat by themselves every 2 hours. You can also use their usual pellets, mixed into a soup with hot water.
Haypoke:
Incredibly common, Guinea Pigs rarely close their eyes and often bits of hay will poke them! Your Guinea Pigs eye will cloud over which looks very alarming, but that’s the eye’s way of protecting itself. If you can see any hay in the eye, you will need to gently remove it if you can - otherwise get your vet to do it. It’s always a good idea to have a guinea pig safe eye drop in stock to treat it. If the eye doesn’t improve within 24 hours, you will need to see the vet for stronger drops.
Remember, if in doubt - CALL THE VET!
Bonding with your piggies
It’s important to remember that Guinea Pigs are prey animals and therefore they will startle easily and move away from you trying to grab them. It can be a long process to get your piggies to trust you and some just don’t particularly enjoy being picked up. I recommend leaving them alone for 24-48 hours when you get home, to allow them to settle in quietly.
Often, the quickest way to your Guinea Pigs heart is through their stomach. You can try bringing a small veggie snack to them each time you approach them, so they will quickly associate you with food. Sit by their cage while they eat and talk softly. After a while you can try and entice them to take food from your hand - be patient!
Catching them can be tricky and stressful for both you and the Guinea Pigs. You can try gently coaxing them into a hide or a corner of the cage to gently scoop up. Hold them firmly with two hands, close to your lap or chest. I recommend that children sit down when holding Guinea Pigs and leave the catching to the adults if they are small.